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Hiking with the Best of the Great Trail
In time for hiking season is Michael Haynes’s second volume of trail-hopping goodness, The Best of the Great Trail (Goose Lane Editions), a collection of thirty must-see trails of Western Canada across five provinces. For hikers, cyclists, and armchair travellers alike, the book describes each route from its conditions down to its dog-friendliness, cellphone coverage, and more. Get a peek at some of the trails below from British Columbia to Winnipeg to Ontario, then get hiked up for some exploration this summer.
1. Sea to Sky Trail in British ColumbiaThis route is two distinct experiences. From its start to the site of the former Olympic Village, about 10.5 km (6.5 mi), the trail is paved and mostly passes through areas of housing, resorts, and golf clubs. It is an easy ride through what is often a nearly urban setting, although with phenomenal mountain scenery. Once it descends the hill from the hostel and enters the forest, the track becomes a rugged pathway through challenging terrain and remains that way until it reaches Brandywine Falls Provincial Park.
Although there are frequent small climbs and descents, overall this route descends toward Brandywine Falls Provincial Park, losing more than 200 m (655+ ft) of elevation. Except for one challenging hill, the first portion is suitable for novices and families using hybrid or even road bicycles. However, the second section definitely requires mountain bikes, as the terrain is rocky and hilly, negotiated on a narrow track, and heads into fairly remote countryside, where wildlife encounters are far more likely.
Put together, this route offers a wide range of experiences and should provide a complete and enjoyable day for anyone who undertakes it all.”
Distance: 23.2 km (14.4 mi), one way
Ascent: 468 m (1,535 ft)
Descent: 668 m (2,192 ft)
Trail conditions: asphalt, crushed stone, natural surface
Cellphone coverage: partial
Hazards: road crossings, rugged terrain, ticks, wildlife
3. Lake Superior Provincial Park in Ontario“This is a lovely and remote coastal hike on the rugged Canadian Shield shoreline of Lake Superior, on one of the country’s most celebrated wilderness trails. I had originally intended to profile the section between Gargantua Bay and Orphan Lake, but I turned back after less than 5 km (3.1 mi), shortly before reaching the Buckshot River, defeated by the startlingly difficult terrain — something that had never before happened to me before or since. The coastal scenery was striking, but I slipped constantly on wet rocks and cut my hands on their many sharp edges. The climbs left me short of breath, and the descents in fear of falling onto jagged outcrops.This was only the second hike I had attempted for the Western Canada book, and it was not a promising beginning to the project. I had to continue west, Lake Superior Park uncompleted and me unclear how I would include it. When I returned to the area two months later, after completing every other route except for Pukaskwa National Park, I explored the Coastal Trail from Gargantua Bay to the north toward Chalfant Cove. This proved to be much easier, though still with some challenging sections. The campsites at Chalfant Cove, the end of the Coastal Trail, were especially tranquil, and I could have remained there contentedly for several days. If anyone truly wishes to challenge themselves, they should: try the route to the south!”Distance: 10.1 km (6.2 mi), one way
Ascent: 208 m (682 ft)
Descent: 230 m (755 ft)
Trail conditions: compacted earth, natural surface
Cellphone coverage: none
Hazards: isolated, wildlife
* * *Thanks to Goose Lane Editions for bringing us The Best of the Great Trail, Vol 2 and for providing the excerpts from the book. 2. Winnipeg Forks“Winnipeg is one of the few places that I actually cycled off several kilometres/miles — ok, quite a few — in the wrong direction. It was definitely my mistake, but better signage with posted maps would have helped. I didn’t mind, of course, because, Winnipeg is a tremendously attractive urban setting for walking and/or cycling. This is particularly so near The Forks, where architectural masterpieces such as the Canadian Museum of Human Rights and the Esplanade Riel provide arresting visual stimuli.Originally I had intended only to profile the loop around St. Boniface and The Forks, but the scenery, both natural and human made, along the Assiniboine and Red Rivers induced me to include this short section as well. (One of the benefits of riding in the wrong direction? Maybe.)”Distance: 15.8 km (9.8 mi) — return
Ascent: 129 m (423 ft)
Descent: 133 m (436 ft)
Trail conditions: asphalt, crushed stone
Cellphone coverage: yes
Hazards: road crossings, road sections
3. Lake Superior Provincial Park in Ontario“This is a lovely and remote coastal hike on the rugged Canadian Shield shoreline of Lake Superior, on one of the country’s most celebrated wilderness trails. I had originally intended to profile the section between Gargantua Bay and Orphan Lake, but I turned back after less than 5 km (3.1 mi), shortly before reaching the Buckshot River, defeated by the startlingly difficult terrain — something that had never before happened to me before or since. The coastal scenery was striking, but I slipped constantly on wet rocks and cut my hands on their many sharp edges. The climbs left me short of breath, and the descents in fear of falling onto jagged outcrops.This was only the second hike I had attempted for the Western Canada book, and it was not a promising beginning to the project. I had to continue west, Lake Superior Park uncompleted and me unclear how I would include it. When I returned to the area two months later, after completing every other route except for Pukaskwa National Park, I explored the Coastal Trail from Gargantua Bay to the north toward Chalfant Cove. This proved to be much easier, though still with some challenging sections. The campsites at Chalfant Cove, the end of the Coastal Trail, were especially tranquil, and I could have remained there contentedly for several days. If anyone truly wishes to challenge themselves, they should: try the route to the south!”Distance: 10.1 km (6.2 mi), one way
Ascent: 208 m (682 ft)
Descent: 230 m (755 ft)
Trail conditions: compacted earth, natural surface
Cellphone coverage: none
Hazards: isolated, wildlife
* * *Thanks to Goose Lane Editions for bringing us The Best of the Great Trail, Vol 2 and for providing the excerpts from the book.Â